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Beyond Rolls

BY Drew Limsky | March 5, 2018 | Feature Features

An innovative Japanese tapas venue bypasses standby sushi.
Shishito peppers

“Japanese food is more than sushi,” says Jirat Suphrom-in, with an authority that belies his 25 years. As the chef at Delray’s new Japanese restaurant, Beg for More Izakaya, Suphrom-in, who was born in Bangkok, made his bones in well-regarded Thai hot spots in Baltimore, Md., and Fort Lauderdale. This time around, in a 75-seat restaurant owned by his girlfriend, Surissada Sothiwanwongse—the chef calls her “my lady”—Suphrom-in offers Japanese tapas like squid, pork belly and boneless chicken yakitori, as well as a signature gyoza preparation where the dumplings are cooked the traditional way (“really crispy on one side, with a soft texture on the other side,” says Suphrom-in) and served in a fan shape. Of course he can’t leave Thailand completely behind, and eagle-eyed diners are quick to snap up the jumbo shrimp pad thai and the stewed short ribs with green curry. “I learned to cook from my mother,” Suphrom-in says. “She taught me well.” 19 SE Fifth Ave., Delray Beach, 561.563.8849

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